Let me tell you: I’ve been to the Red River, I’ve drank its water (however unwillingly) in copious quantities, I watched with hilarity and shock as my friends disapeared from the raft into the churning waters below, and then,… then, I went and did it again. What follows is my account of the Red River. OR, "How to forget what it’s like to ever be warm again."
The morning started in a frantic chaos of trying to decipher the cryptic messages of the organizer versus basic logic. We were told to bring woolen socks, sweaters, etc to wear, but the obvious sticking point for us was the fact that when you’re wearing a wetsuit, you’re likely not wearing a wool sweater underneath, since the point of the suit is to be as close and tight to your body as possible to suck and keep your body heat in. Flatmate Lindsay and I also shuddered at the thought of what wearing wet wool against our skin would feel like - something akin to Balki Bartokomous’s Mantle of One Thousand Itches.
After packing half our wardrobes, we got picked up and headed outside into the cold, dark rain, which was collectively decided to be a bad omen on what was to come. Rain, 10 degree weather, and a general apprehension about barreling down a river known to kill people also did nothing to dissuade our fears. We generally agreed that we would look back on the day with fondness, but it was small comfort to such a depressing start of the day.
Riding in what my friend lovingly calls his "pimpmobile" (on a side note, I believe this to be true of all cars with a freaking male symbol on the front), we make good time, and arrive early, which gives us a chance to scope the joint out.
Don’t be fooled by the blue sky poking out - the evil cloud god was momentarily distracted while laughing at our fate.
The place (Azur Rafting in case you can’t make it out) was actually pretty legit, I have to say. We had gotten there just on time to see the previous group depart, and were reassured by the lengths the guides seemed to be going through to explain raft safety and what you could expect on the river.
What I was less impressed by, however, was the lone guide (second pic above) who ran around the compound looking extremely nervous and looking like he was forgetting something. I whispered a short prayer for the group ahead.
Exploring the compound, we happened upon what appeared to be not one, but two abandoned truck trailers precariously placed beside the riverbank. Upon closer inspection, we still had no idea what the hell was going on with those things. The single clue to their surely storied histories was soundly affixed to the back door of one of them:
Sensing a good photo opportunity, I mistakenly suggested the word "cheese" be replaced by "Stop Nuclear Disarmament!". Only too late did I realize that that made absolutely no sense (except to republicans), but it still made for a good photo.
We kept looking around, and ended up at the casting off point, where we could see a nice view of the river. What we could also see quite nicely was the slightly upriver waterfalls, giving us a clue of what we were in for. Here’s the priceless look of fear on Lindsay’s face as he stared at the power awaiting him.
In a somewhat masochistic way, he also decided to see how amazingly cold the water was. His hand went limp in 5 seconds flat.
To restore feeling into his now-useless appendage, Jon suggested that they play "The Russian Game", which is also known in some circles as "One-foot Slam". A basic a game as there can be, it involves bouncing around on one foot and trying to get the opponent to touch ground first without doing so yourself. It went slightly too far, but all parties involved felt warmer afterwards (as did I, the cameraman, from laughing so hard).
When the others finally arrived, we were rounded up, made to sign away our souls via a handy legal document, and were then whisked away to the equipment booth where we would acquire our wetsuits and lifejackets. Now, as a giant, I’ve come to realize that most generic clothing doesn’t fit me in exactly the right way - either a size that is long enough is also too wide (because only fat people can grow that tall, apparently), or the clothes fit in width and the length is lacking. Well, this was the latter case - but it didn’t stop the suits from being fabulously fashionable.
At this point I obviously had to put my dear digital camera away, because rivers are the natural born enemy of electronics. However, the imagination is often just as vivid a tool as a visual. Shall we?
The section of the river we were to raft down was called the "Sept Soeurs", which translates to the Seven Sisters, or I guess the Seven Nuns, depending on your animosity to the church. Ironically, it was only the part of the river that the section was named after that we did not cross - for the simple fact that the seven sisters are seven waterfalls in a row. More on that later :).
I’ll spare readers from a blow-by-blow account of every rapid we came across, because honestly, I can’t quite remember what the hell happened, but there were a few notable moments out there. After the first easy set of rapids, it was time to practice heaving people back in the boat, getting back into the boat yourself, and flipping the boat back over if it got turned. Unfortunately, to practice flipping the boat back over, we had to flip it upside down in the first place, and a passenger somehow got a paddle in their upper lip in the process, cutting a deep and short gash, causing her to sprout what looked remarkably like a blood goatee. Don’t worry though - she didn’t feel any pain, for some reason (probably was the freezing water), and was good to go after a little first aid on the river.
Our boat never flipped, but it came very close to doing so multiple times. Our guide brought us back into a rapid called "La Sécheuse" (The dryer), after successfully clearing it the first time, for a little bit of fun where 5/9 people were unceremoniously thrown from the craft. I was very, very, very close to following their example, as 3/4 of my body was already overboard, when I felt my foot having leverage against a cross-seat of the raft and I was able to abdominally crunch my way back to safety, only to have to lunge towards the other side of the boat and grab hold of the rope to weigh the left side down and stop the boat from capsizing.
The second run down the river after a delicious pita lunch brought us back to the same rapids, but this time instead of going towards La Sécheuse our guide Martin took the right hand side, bringing us into the jaws of "La Machine à Laver" (The Washing Machine). I thought everything was going well, until I heard our guide start to scream hoarsely to "paddle hard!" over and over again. He had warned us, that when things are serious, you’ll hear it in the guide’s voice. Well, the panic was definitely there. We churned water as hard as we can, and I glanced at the veritable pit of swirling water that we were barely pasing besides, and suddenly heard "Paddle hard backwards!" from Martin. Again I could see another smooth pit of water crashing back into itself that we again barely backed sideways away from, and we were free. In-tense!
When we got back the second time, we wrestled the damp and smelly wetsuits off (mine nearly killed me) and headed to the pimpmobile for some first-class nuclear furnace heating, where feet were cleaned and spirits risen.
In all, the weather wasn’t as bad as it could have been (although it was fucking, fucking cold), the water wasn’t cold when you had your wetsuit on (marvels of technology, those things), the portage past the Sept Soeurs was a little long, muddy, and painful (the rafts weigh about 500 pounds), but the experience was truly awesome, the river didn’t taste too bad (and boy, did I ever drink a lot of it), and we got some sweet photos from the company photographer afterwards:
I’m definitely going again next year.